Cannon Digi Troll 10 TS

The Cannon Digi Troll 10 TS down rigger is the Cadillac of down riggers.  The 10TS is definitely a top performer in every aspect with features to spare.  It makes every other rigger wish they could be like it.  Well that is until they see the price tag.  Even on sale you better plan on spending $1500+ to get it operational.  A standard electric rigger will run you around $500.  Why spend three times the cost?  It has features other riggers just don’t have, and it will help you catch fish.  Does a person need to spend the extra for a TS and its salt water rating?   To me the extra cost compared to quality gained is a great value.        

 

I had watched a couple other guides using Digi Trolls, and there were days they were catching fish and few others were.   Obviously I am in the business to catch fish, so it was a no-brainer I had to get one.  I have been running Scotty riggers for years, and they are one phenomenal rigger but they are not a Digi-Troll.  I wanted to run close to the bottom and target certain fish.  Using the Scotty to track bottom was pretty difficult in my situation.  Trying to run 3 riggers, 1-3 divers, driving the boat, netting fish, baiting gear, and interacting with clients makes it very difficult to run a rigger a few feet off the bottom.   

 

Photo By Char Harmier Photography

If you run an upper end Humminbird fish finder you can control it through the finder for either a Digi Troll 5 or 10.  Only the 10 operates by itself.  The features are pretty amazing, and everything is just at the touch of a button on the rigger.   I run Lowrance electronics so I adjust everything right on the riggers touch pad.   It is adjustable in every way possible.   It also will bottom track at a set distance off the bottom and cycle at two different depths for pre-set lengths of time.  You don’t need a black box with this rigger as it has Positive Ion built in.  These are just the main features it has, and if you run more then one rigger you can operate them all from the same rigger with each one doing different things.  Add in different cycle speeds, up down speeds, boom extension, etc. the list is long for features.

 

I bought it for one reason…BOTTOM TRACKING.  It requires its own transducer (if you don’t have a compatible Humminbird), and the transducer location is critical.   If you get any turbulence or even a tiny air bubble it affects how well it tracks.   The turbulence will cause the transducer to give momentary false readings.  This causes the rigger to continually adjust itself, and it will start running up and down like a Yo-Yo.   Other times it will drop it onto the bottom then snap up the slack in a huge slam.  It even jerked hard enough a couple times to cause the cable to jump the wheel at the boom end.   It took a while and mine is adjusted pretty good but not perfect.   I will have to have another bracket added to the boat this spring closer to the center line.   This should totally solve my false reading problem in rough or faster flowing water.    

 

Anglers all the time are asking me about it and what I think.   Like all anglers they are looking for the magic item to put more fish in the boat.   I reply back with a question “How many more fish a day would it take to justify spending three times the cost?”  Usually they think they should be getting double to triple the fish.  I tell them to save their money.   There is no doubt I have caught fish I never would have caught without the bottom tracking feature.   The difference for me is I have to catch fish (at least I think so), and if this rigger gets me the one fish I wouldn’t have hooked it’s worth it.  I also admit if I was not guiding clients I wouldn’t spend the extra money.   I still catch more fish at set depths then bottom tracking day in and day out.  I also remember two days where we boated 12 Salmon, and every one of them was bottom tracking.   I know I could have done close to the same thing with a Scotty if I was fishing with friends to help use my Scotty to bottom track.  In summary it is a great rigger with amazing features, but I don’t know if the extra cost is worth it for the average sport angler.  If that one fish in a trip is worth it then for sure the Digi Troll can help greatly.      

Walking Varminter Part 3

I am done with the first half of barrel break in.  This rifles bore is polishing up amazingly well.  I am getting almost no copper fouling already.  I use only one good soaking with Sweets and the copper is gone.  I am happy so far.   Now is the time to start three the
 shot break in, so I better mount up the scope.

 

 I can then get the scope zeroed very close to where I want it for load development.  I had two options for this rifle a Burris Fullfield II Ballistic Plex 4.5-14x, or a Leupold VXIII 4.5-14x with target turrets both matte finish.  The Leupold I think is the better overall scope, but the Burris is top quality and fits this rifles purpose better.  I rank the Burris Fullfield II line of scopes as probably the best value going today.  I want a 0-500 yard rifle with specific aiming points for a two inch kill zone.  I also wanted those aiming points quickly without having to turn the turrets, so the Ballistic Plex was the answer.  Sure I could have a custom reticle built for the Leupold, but that is more money and time.  Besides it has target turrets already.   I will just have to get another rifle that fits its design.  As many of you know you shoot a varmint the first chance you get or you may not get another one.  There is no messing around getting everything all ready and adjusted.

 

I have used Leupold standard bases and rings on 95% of my rifles without a single problem.  I went with the “High” rings to allow good head positioning regardless of clothing or shooting position.  I also went with reversible bases so it allows the most adjustment for the best fit.  I do not Lock Tite in the screws on the bases or rings.  I clean the threads with rubbing alcohol and air.  Then lightly oil (Tetra Oil!) the threads and tighten down tight.  The front is a twist in base, and I get it as close as I can by eye with the plastic wrench designed for this.   Then I clamp of an old straight tube (Balvar) scope in the front ring with nothing on the back.  I don’t trust any cheap adjustable scopes I would use as a wrench to maintain center so I used a fixed cross hair.  Using the Bore Sight and scope I make final adjustments to the base until the scope is perfectly centered.   Then I put the back base in place, and equally (1/16 turns) apply the rear screws making sure the center doesn’t change.  That is the best way I know to mount a scope to the bores center.  It doesn’t mean the reticle is level to the bore but the scope is centered.

    

Then I turn the scope to its highest power.  Holding the rifle like I will be shooting it with my eyes closed I open my eyes when the gun feels in the perfect position.   Then I move the scope forward or backward until I have the fullest view through the scope with no shadows.  It takes more then once, and it is obvious when you have it mounted correctly.  Because it is set on the highest magnification you will always have a full view on lower settings.  I line up the cross hairs with a straight line across the shop and tighten the rings again equally with small partial turns.  Final adjustments with the turrets on the bore sight and it’s now ready for paper.   I will make final adjustments with the 2^nd and 3^rd rounds as I go until close.  The Point of Impact (POI) will move slightly, but will be well within where I want it. 

 

Ron

The Importance of Gun Safes

 

Most people I associate with really enjoy talking about hunting and its related equipment.  Discussion topics range from guns, bows, ammo choice, optics, dogs, boots, and everything in between.  The bothersome part for me very seldom is there talk about how to protect all of the hunting gear.   I never once had a person tell me I should buy a safe.  I was in my early 20’s and had just walked out of a gun store with a brand new rifle and scope for $1200.  On the way out I saw a Browning safe sitting by the door on sale for $800 but I didn’t give it much thought. 

I leaned the rifle up against the back wall of the closet next to my only other long gun when I got home.  Then it hit me right in the ear just like my dad did when I was a kid.  I could hear his voice very clearly “What in the hell were you thinking?!” after I had done something utterly beyond stupid.  I realized, in 10 seconds with one grab some POS (Parasitic Opportunistic Soul) could take my new $1200 gun and my old $20 gun.  I called the shop and put the safe on hold before I could talk myself out of it.   Without a doubt that gun safe was the best sporting goods purchase I have ever made.  The more I age (not grow up) the more I realize the huge benefit of a gun safe.

I am talking about a real gun safe not a tin box with a 10 cent lock that weighs 10lbs.   The heavier the better, and if it takes 4-5 guys to move that is good.  When you have to bribe more with Beer and BBQ to get them to show up is an even better safe.  I would also encourage you to buy a fire resistant safe.  Always remember the largest size and longest fire rating you CAN NOT afford.  I am tight with my money like crazy tight, but if I buy something I buy value and quality.   I don’t care what it is, quality costs more - but that does not mean value costs more.  I’m telling you to spend more then you really want to on a gun safe.  A safe would be the only thing I would suggest anyone to spend more then they really wanted.  Do your research and it is all about the steel…the more the better and the same for the fire rating make sure it is UL or other “Officially” rated.    

The good safes really work and protect everything in them.   Make sure you bolt the safe to the floor if possible and preferably concrete.  Yes the POS’s can and will take the entire safe if they can tip it over.  You can put anything of value in them from papers to photographs.   Luckily you can also deduct them off from your taxes.   Just make sure the receipt says safe or home security safe not “Gun Safe”.  Don’t think just because you spent $2000 you will get an additional 2K back.  It is a DEDUCTION not a refund, but every penny of your income you can get back before it is given away you should. 

I have witnessed house fires and every time the guns and papers were in great shape if they were in a fire safe.  Don’t worry about if you move…contrary to popular belief it is not that hard to move the safe or safes with you.   I have moved twice and it is not that big of a deal.  Besides, there is Beer and BBQ on both sides of the move for your buddies and you. 

A couple things to consider are if the safe is rated to hold 50 guns it won’t.   The only way possible to get any safe I know to hold the rated guns are to have them banging into each other.  I would also suggest a “U” shaped storage rack for at least half of it.   This allows you to use your guns frequently without having to remove a bunch of others or bang them into each other getting them out.  I’m into taking care of my two long guns not damaging them in and out of the safe.  Buy a safe instead of a new firearm, and you will realize you should have bought a safe a long time ago. 

That is, unless you don’t have an AR, AK, FN, etc. type rifle and some semi auto handguns with a lot of High Capacity magazines for all of them.  Of course, I would suggest you buy those immediately without hesitation.   Then of course the required ammunition or reloading supplies for said firearms.    Sorry got off topic, but it was worth it.

 

-Ron Oules

Who is Ron Oules

I would like to introduce the newest R-Dub Outdoors Pro Staffer Ron Oules. He will be writing about all sorts of hunting and fishing gear and techniques. He has taught me a lot so far and I know he will pass it on to the readers of R-Dub Outdoors as well.

Who I am:

I grew up in rural Eastern Washington on a small 200 acre farm.  Just like all farms it was work and life skills building from as far back as I can remember.   I believe every person should have the incredible fortune of being raised on a farm.  I grew up learning and doing things we just thought were normal, but when people hear about it today they have a hard time believing it.    The diversity of things I was able to do growing up was pretty amazing.  

Two things have stuck with me for as long as I can remember.  Hard work not luck produces success, and the best things to do are hunting and fishing.  

I was around hunting and fishing with my grandpa and started on my own when I was eight.   I was given a single shot .410 for my 8^th birthday and that was the real start of my personal hunting.  The surprising thing to many is I was 95% self taught.  I got my first German Short Hair bird dog at 10, and we spent a lot of days hunting Quail and Chucker together.  Shooting varmints from starlings to feral dogs was pretty much just the norm, and would be a everyday thing if I still lived on the ranch.  I even ran a short trap line for rabbits going to and from school.

I still remember my first deer hunt at the age of 10.  Dad dropped me off at the top of the hill (many would call it a mountain) in the dark and went back to work.   He had told me to walk over the edge, sit down, wait until 10:00, and then hunt down to the house.   Of course I knew I could only shoot bucks, and had a good idea of how to gut a deer.  Remember those life skills from above?  I had seen and helped gut a lot of animals butchered for food.  I shot three times at what I thought was a huge (reality 18-20”) 4x4 Mule Deer, and missed every single shot.  The first of two deer I have ever missed.  When I walked out of the trees on my way home my dad was waiting for me because he heard the shots.  Having to tell my dad I missed hurt more than missing the deer.  My dad was very supportive, but I was not going to ever tell him I missed again. 

I was slow to start Elk hunting but if I can only hunt one big game animal it would be Elk.     They are impressive animals who live in beautiful country.  I also was late in starting my bow hunting, but I wish I had archery hunted from the beginning.   One day I will go archery Elk hunting when my schedule allows it.

I have been reloading since I was 10 also starting with shot shells.  I had to reload because all the ammunition I was shooting was too expensive to buy new.   I cannot even remember the last time I purchased a center fire metallic cartridge loaded.  Reloading has helped my shooting probably the most in being able to practice more combined with the ballistics knowledge.   

I fished growing up for fun.  I was not as dedicated to the fishing as much as the hunting.   I fly fished for trout some, plunked bait, threw spinners, but really did not troll very much.   The only trolling I remember was with my Grandpa on Lake Chelan for Kokanee.   The trolling gear had more weight and drag then the fish did.  My limited fishing was always enjoyable, but I had never really caught any “Big” fish.  I started fishing for Salmon in the mid 90’s and I was immediately in love.   Then in 2000 we had our own local Chinook fishery, and my hunting had a very serious competitor for my off time.   The enjoyment of Salmon fishing just continued to grow, and I started providing guided fishing trips with my company Reellentless Guide Service.   I have to admit the Salmon fishing has taken over quite a bit of my hunting time now.  My fishing details of gear and technique have less time in then the hunting, but it is quickly gaining and will surpass it very soon I believe.

I have also been lucky enough to spend time with my kids hunting and fishing.   It is so much fun just to spend any amount of time I can with them in the outdoors.  All of them are very good athletes playing all year long.  There has always been a conflict for time, so we take advantage of what time we have.  The boys are several states away during hunting season now.  I’m planning a out of state hunt next fall to Nebraska.  My daughter (Teenager) told me last year she would go deer hunting only one day.  We were dragging out her smallest buck to date. I told her how much I loved being able to watch the sun come up with her.   She asked what about the deer?  I told her I could care less if she got a deer or not.  She had a odd look on her face.  Not now but I know she will understand later on.   I am a Hunters Ed Instructor also, and that has been a very rewarding thing for me.  Just today I saw two nice first bucks from students from my spring 2012 class.

I hope I can share my experiences from equipment to technique to help others, and at the same time they get enjoyment out of my information.

Ron

 

Why Shoot Coyotes

I read a comment just the other day and it made me just have to answer.   The person was talking about why shoot coyotes because the person shooting them is not going to eat them.   This is just one of many different views on why coyotes should not be shot.   I just happen to take the opposite view on whether coyotes should be shot or not. 

 There are lots of reasons to shoot coyotes.

 

 1. There are a very good predator and not only kill young deer but adult deer regularly.  Contrary to popular belief they kill perfectly healthy animals.

 

2. They kill farm and domestic animals daily.  Besides Owls, Coyotes are the top predator for domestic cats and small dogs. 

 

3. They carry Rabies, Mange, Distemper, Heartworm, and others.   Yes, these diseases are transmitted to other domestic, wild animals easily, and even humans at times. 

 

4. It stimulates the economy one dead coyote at a time.  Their pelts can be sold for decent money for both the hunter and fur dealer.  Fuel, vehicles, firearms, clothing, footwear, calls, etc. are purchased and used. 

 

5. By killing coyotes it actually increases their birth rate or "Natality", so in a way killing coyotes will increase their population potentially.  How can it be bad when shooting them increases the numbers of offspring and increases the opportunity to kill more.   It is a situation where actually everyone and everything wins.  Well not everything wins…the dead coyotes would have lost I guess.

 

-Ron Oules